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Whenever curating a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee well-known award-winning names. Yet, situated high among these food titans is a simple salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the owners totally astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” says a family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest place achieving such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has kept much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own walls. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.